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LawnWorks Seeding Tips

Expert Lawn Overseeding Tips

for Stronger Growth and Better Coverage

From fixing bare spots, building density, or improving genetic diversity, overseeding is great
thing to do for your lawn. There are several things to consider when you decide to seed.

Timing

Seeding is best done when temperatures are consistently between 60-75 degrees which is generally around late spring or early fall. We recommend straying away from spring seeding when possible – here’s why:

Maintaining the spring seedlings through the summer can be difficult. The young seedlings have shallow roots which dry out faster in the summer heat. Summer watering needs to be diligent following a spring seeding.
We cannot apply crabgrass pre-emergent into seeded areas (or areas that will be seeded that spring) because the herbicide will interfere. We also need to delay your spring weed control application until the seedlings are mature enough to withstand herbicides. This allows more time for the weeds to mature and for temperatures to rise, making any following herbicide applications less effective, on top of an increased risk of crabgrass.
While air temperatures may be ideal, soil temperatures in the spring are generally a bit lower than ideal for germination.

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Seed Selection

Picking out which species to use is primarily dependent on light conditions of the area. You may need to use more than one species in different sections for optimal results. This chart reflects how we generally decide on species.

It is important to use high quality certified seed. Certified seed has been screened at a higher quality for genetic purity and minimal weed and crop seed and filler material. This type of seed can be obtained from many local landscape suppliers like SiteOne, Conserv FS, or local nurseries. There are also online vendors with high quality products like Twin City Seed Co. Seed from box stores should work if maintained properly, but in many cases, you get what you pay for in terms of seed quality.

Turfgrass science is constantly evolving to keep up our constantly changing environment, and a lot of research has been done to develop and advance various species and cultivars of turfgrass. New technology has allowed for identifying the most resistant species for specific criteria such as drought, disease resistance, growth rate, and much more. If you really want to dive into the weeds, check out NTEP to help pick out the best species for you.

Should I Consider Sod Instead?

There are a few advantages to choosing to sod your lawn rather than seed it. The instant gratification of a lush, weed-free (initially) sod install can be very appealing. Erosion control on sloped areas is much easier to manage with sod, and sodded areas are immediately accessible, while seeded areas should receive minimal traffic. While the schedule is slightly different, sod establishment does require heavy watering to establish. Sodded lawns often do not develop as deep of a root system and can present more issues with thatch. Species and cultivar selection often are limited with sod and light conditions are generally limited to full sun to partial shade. Sod does not take well in shady areas. Sod is also much more expensive to install than seed.

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Steps for Success

The most important factors for successful germination are seed-to-soil contact and proper watering. If watering capabilities are limited, seeding will not be as successful.

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Prepping the Seed Bed

Soil compaction should be minimized and exposed soil surface area should be maximized to ensure thorough seed-to-soil contact. A core aeration done in multiple directions is best for overseeding an established lawn. For spot seeding, at least try to cultivate the soil with a hard rake or garden weasel. Remove any dead plant material or debris to expose the soil in these areas.

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Sowing the Seed

Be generous with the seed, especially in bare areas. Most seed bags will instruct seeding to be done anywhere from 1-5 pounds per thousand square feet. We generally seed at 10 pounds per thousand square feet to compensate for seed mortality and pesky critters. While you do not need mountains of seed, you want enough to come in to where you do not have to seed again next season. Be careful to not get seed into plant beds or in concrete cracks so you do not have to spend extra time weeding in a few weeks.

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Fertilization

A starter fertilizer is beneficial to kickstart healthy growth. These types of fertilizers are going to be higher in phosphorous which aids with root establishment and development. Many box store starter fertilizers will suffice for small areas when applied safely and correctly.

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Protecting the Seed

It is ideal to topdress your seed with a layer of material to protect it from washing out and from birds. This will also help with moisture retention. Straw mats work well for extensive areas. Penn Mulch is a great product for small to large spots of exposed seed. It contains a small amount of starter fertilizer and gets a little “tacky” to help hold the seed in place. Coverage should be thorough, but you should not smother the seed. Keep in mind that Penn Mulch will expand slightly with water. You can also use peat moss, compost, or topsoil. Of these three, peat moss and compost are preferrable because they will break down eventually, minimizing lawnbumpiness in the long run.

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Watering the Seed

This is arguably the most important part for successful germination. The goal is to keep the seed beds moist
throughout the day – not soaking and certainly not dry. This generally consists of watering seeded areas for 10-20 minutes 2-3 times per day. After germination, you want to switch to a deep, infrequent schedule as normally recommended to strengthen the roots. Germination timeframes will vary by species.